Omilo sits inside the Riverlands Centre, trading the usual rustic aesthetic of Greek tavernas for a polished, glass-fronted dining room. The kitchen, led by Andreas Skiathos and Piet Brink, focuses on the intersection of charcoal grilling and modern plating rather than strictly traditional presentation. It is a place designed for shared eating, where the table fills up quickly with small plates and dips. You typically start with the basics – fava bean puree or spicy tiro salata – before moving on to hot mezze where phyllo pastry does the heavy lifting. The kitchen wraps spinach and feta for spanakopita or fries feta in pastry with honey for ravasaki.
The main courses lean heavily on the charcoal grill, pushing out deboned baby chicken, pork belly, and lamb rump that carry the scent of the fire. There are deviations from the standard grill menu, like a prawn bisque pasta served in a distinct shell-shaped bowl, but the core experience remains tethered to the shared format. The dining room itself is modern and controlled, right down to the wireless lamps on the tables that let you dim or brighten your own corner of the room. It is a slicker, tighter operation than the chaotic family-run spots often associated with this cuisine, fitting neatly into the newer commercial development of Observatory.