Salsify at the Roundhouse

It is rare to find graffiti murals inside a national monument, but Salsify isn’t interested in being a traditional period piece. Occupying the upper level of The Roundhouse – a structure dating back to 1786 that once served as a guardhouse and hunting lodge – the restaurant uses its history as a backdrop rather than a rulebook. The interior by Sandalene Dale-Roberts mixes the building’s colonial bones with sharp modern contrasts: Persian rugs and velvet furniture sit beneath avant-garde art by Louis de Villiers and a ceiling covered in thousands of origami flowers folded from old menus. The meal follows a set choreography. You don’t head immediately to a table; the evening begins in the Preservation Room, an antechamber where guests settle in with canapés and a hand-washing ritual using an herbaceous salt scrub. Only then do you move to the main dining areas, which occupy the inner and outer rings of the round building to maximize views over the Atlantic and the Twelve Apostles. Executive Chef Ryan Cole draws heavily on his background in a fishing family, often sourcing the seafood himself or through his brother. The kitchen serves a multi-course tasting menu that relies on hyper-local produce, foraged herbs, and the seasons to dictate the lineup. While the wine pairings are comprehensive, the team puts equal weight on a non-alcoholic pairing that often highlights complex teas.