Kintsu

Finding Kintsu requires ducking down an alleyway in the shadow of a multi-storey car park to reach a Grade II-listed barn. It is a secluded spot that feels removed from the immediate traffic of North Hill, anchored by a building that balances its agricultural bones with a moody, polished aesthetic. Inside, the design keeps things simple – bare wood tables, natural floors, and no tablecloths – letting the timber frame and wall-mounted uplights define the room. The kitchen is the domain of chef-owner Paul Wendholt, who reopened this space after his previous restaurant, Grain, closed in 2020. The name references the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with gold, a nod to the crowdfunded effort that brought the venue back to life. The operation centers entirely on tasting menus, meaning the rhythm of the evening is set by the kitchen rather than à la carte choices. You commit to either five or eight courses, with dishes shifting frequently based on seasonal availability and local supply. The food is modern British and technically precise, often arriving as a surprise if you prefer not to read the menu beforehand. It is a structured dining experience, but the atmosphere remains relaxed rather than stiff. In warmer months, a small central courtyard opens up for pre-dinner drinks, while a two-seat chef’s table offers a direct view of the pass for those who want to watch the service unfold up close.