A refugee from the Paris Commune established this Greek Street fixture in 1871, bringing recipes across the channel that formed the basis for what is now London’s oldest patisserie. The shop has operated continuously through Soho’s many transformations, currently under the stewardship of sisters Michele and Tania Wade – Michele herself started here as a "Saturday girl" decades ago. The interior rejects modern minimalism entirely, favoring a cluttered, maximalist aesthetic where mirrors inscribed with "Liberté, égalité, fraternité" sit alongside antiques, a piano, and eclectic decorations.
Trays of pastries line the counter and window, where fruit tarts, cheesecakes, and chocolate eclairs are piled high rather than arranged with geometric precision. While the lineage is strictly French, the shop produces massive scones served with clotted cream that often overshadow the continental offerings. Space is tight, and the energy is often frantic. You order at the counter before finding a spot, which might mean squeezing into the upstairs tea room – which doubles as an art gallery – or claiming one of the few tables on the pavement outside. It is a place that prioritizes character over polish, serving tea and cake with a distinct lack of pretension.
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Maison Bertaux