Fonda

A large, traditional clay griddle – a comal – sits at the heart of Fonda, connecting the open kitchen directly to the dining room. The rest of the space takes its cues from old Yucatan haciendas and Mexico City’s design scene, with warm ceramic tiles and vibrant pink and orange textiles creating a lively, energetic atmosphere. The whole setup is chef Santiago Lastra’s modern take on the traditional fondas of his native Mexico – the small, family-owned spots that serve comforting daily menus. Here, he filters regional Mexican classics through a lens of British ingredients. That focus on tradition starts with the tortillas, made from heirloom corn milled right in the kitchen. Every table gets a trio of house-made salsas to start – a verde, a roja, and a smoky macha. The menu is built around sharing plates, and the common approach is to order three or four dishes per person. You’ll find antojitos like Sikil Pak, a toasted pumpkin seed dip, alongside tuna ceviche and costras, a taqueria staple of ribeye and melted cheese on a flour tortilla. Larger plates include slow-cooked pork shoulder and braised beef short rib for the table. The cocktail list follows the same creative approach, with drinks like a Champagne Paloma and a corn husk old fashioned. Located on pedestrianised Heddon Street in Mayfair, the restaurant is busy nearly every night, so booking ahead is essential. Just know that a 15% service charge is automatically added to the bill.