Jin Kichi

The charcoal grill anchors the ground floor, sending heat and scent toward the row of stools wrapping around the prep area. Since 1992, this narrow space on Heath Street has operated with the density and pace of a Tokyo neighborhood joint, distinct from the typical Hampstead dining room. It is an izakaya in the truest sense – a place built for drinking and grazing rather than formal courses. The layout is split into two distinct zones. Upstairs is for the action – sitting at the counter means watching chefs maneuver skewers of chicken, pork, and asparagus over the coals. It is tight quarters, and elbows often brush against neighbors as the room fills up. A staircase leads to a basement dining area with standard tables, which removes you from the immediate theater of the grill but offers a bit more space for conversation. The menu is vast, covering the full breadth of Japanese casual dining. While the yakitori is the visual focus, the kitchen handles sushi, sashimi, tempura, and heavy bowls of udon or soba with equal attention. Plates hit the table in no particular order, intended to be picked at alongside a flight of sake or a glass of shochu. Because the restaurant is small and maintains a loyal following, walking in without a reservation is rarely successful.