
Football on Saturdays, market stalls on Sundays. I know exactly how to time the Tube rush.
The staircase leading up from The Audley Public House signals a sharp shift in tone, moving from the noise of a Victorian pub to a room that operates more like a lived-in gallery. This is the work of Artfarm – the hospitality arm of the Hauser & Wirth founders – and the art here is not merely decoration. You walk across a commissioned palladiana mosaic floor by Rashid Johnson that spans the entire dining room, grounding a space filled with over 200 works. It is not uncommon to find yourself seated next to a Lucian Freud plate of prawns or glancing up at a Warhol lobster while you eat. The kitchen, led by Executive Chef Jamie Shears, answers this visual density with polished, substantial British classics. The menu relies heavily on produce from the group’s own farm in Somerset, focusing on updated tradition rather than experimental technique. You will see a steady stream of Lobster Pies and Beef Wellingtons moving through the room – dishes that are rich enough to hold their own against the surroundings. Despite the pedigree of the collection, the atmosphere avoids the hushed stiffness of a museum. Studio Laplace designed the space to feel bright and domestic, with large windows overlooking Mayfair and table lamps based on 1918 designs by Sophie Taeuber-Arp. Staff are trained to navigate both the menu and the walls, often explaining the provenance of a Matisse or a salt shaker with equal familiarity. It is a dense, culturally heavy experience where the line between an exhibition and a dinner service is intentionally blurred.