Under a timber grid ceiling glowing with folklore-inspired murals, this tiny De Beauvoir room fits just twenty people – mostly standing. It is an intimate setup inside a repurposed 19th-century building on Halliford Street, marked by an anonymous exterior that keeps the focus inward. The interior feels like a jewel box, lined with mirrored walls and handcrafted pink and blue cement tiles. A central stainless steel bar dominates the floor, serving simultaneously as a scooping station and a wine counter.
The project comes from the team behind the nearby restaurant Goodbye Horses, and the menu reflects that culinary pedigree. Head chef Jack Coggins treats ice cream with a savory, experimental edge – think salted ricotta with blueberry, brown butter, or fig leaf. These aren’t just desserts; they are designed to be eaten alongside a glass of wine. Floor manager Sophie Mathieson curates a list of "glou-glou" wines from small independent producers, focusing on bottles that can stand up to the complex, creamy textures of the scoops.
There is very little seating, so the energy stays vertical and mobile. You might lean against the counter to sample a few flavors before committing, or huddle with a date in the corner. It works best as a transient stop – a quick, high-quality detour before or after a meal elsewhere in the neighborhood.
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