Frites Atelier | London Soho

Sergio Herman brings a three-Michelin-star background to the deep fryers at this Soho counter. While the format follows the speed and layout of a standard takeaway, the execution is significantly more technical. Potatoes are sourced from Zeeland clay soil, fried with the skins on, and served in ceramic bowls rather than disposable paper cones. The menu moves beyond ketchup and vinegar into heavy, complex toppings that function more like plated courses. You see fries buried under Flemish beef stew, Indo-style peanut sauce with fried onions, or creamy truffle mayonnaise. It is dense, fork-heavy food that turns a side dish into a full meal. The space itself is compact and functional, designed for high turnover. You order at the till and wait while staff assemble the bowls in an open kitchen, often using tweezers to place garnishes. Seating is typically limited to a few high tables, so you often end up eating while standing or leaning against a ledge. The room stays loud and warm, filled with the smell of hot oil and the constant movement of people cycling through.