The unassuming strip mall setting on Las Tunas Drive doesn't give much away, but the experience inside Bistro Na’s is a world apart. You walk into a formal dining room designed to evoke a Qing Dynasty courtyard, a space filled with intricate wood carvings, ornate lattice screens, and a rich palette of red and gold. The room is warmed by high-hanging soft lights and detailed with opulent bamboo trim, creating an atmosphere that feels both historic and deliberate.
The cooking here is rooted in the Chinese Imperial Court, based on historic recipes passed down through the founder’s family, whose ancestors served as physicians to the emperor. This is the first North American outpost of a well-known Beijing restaurant group, and the kitchen, led by Chef Tian Yong, is focused on bringing a very specific and traditional style of Manchu cuisine to Los Angeles.
The menu arrives as a thick, heavy book, with large photographs illustrating each dish. While there are premium items like abalone and sea cucumber, the Crispy Shrimp is a constant on almost every table. Other foundational dishes include the rich, slow-cooked Na's Braised Pork Belly and the Emperor's Jar Soup – a complex broth of beef tendon, mushroom, fish maw, and quail egg. For dessert, the fish-shaped milk cheese pudding is a common choice.
Reservations are highly recommended, especially for weekend evenings when the room gets quite lively. Larger parties often book the private rooms, which are set with large, round tables for banquet-style dining. Parking is straightforward, with a surface lot right out front and an underground garage.