Chi Spacca translates to "he or she who cleaves," a name that perfectly explains the philosophy of this small, meat-focused Italian restaurant. Tucked onto the corner of Melrose and Highland, it shares a building with its sister restaurants, Osteria Mozza and Mozza2Go, but has its own distinct, singular purpose. The whole concept is built around the idea of how an Italian butcher would cook – with a deep respect for the animal, a mastery of charcuterie, and a reliance on live fire.
The dining room itself is intimate and dark, with a warm, candlelit glow that reflects off walls lined floor-to-ceiling with wine bottles. An open kitchen dominates one side of the space, where a wood-burning oven casts light across the marble countertops. If you can get a seat at the counter, you have a direct view of the chefs working the grill, managing the flames and searing the large cuts of meat that define the menu.
The restaurant was born from a salumi program, and the board of house-cured meats is still the right way to begin. From there, the menu is pure macelleria, centered on massive, dry-aged steaks like the bone-in Porterhouse and a signature Tomahawk pork chop. Other staples include the rich Beef and Bone Marrow Pie, wrapped entirely in pastry, and the thin, cheese-stuffed Focaccia di Recco that’s on almost every table.
The meal unfolds organically. Plates are brought out as they’re ready, not in traditional courses, and the entire menu is designed for sharing. Reservations are essential for a table in the compact space. It’s a place built unapologetically around meat, with very few alternatives for vegetarians.