El Huarache Azteca

El Huarache Azteca has held its spot on York Boulevard for nearly three decades, a family-run anchor in Highland Park that has remained true to its roots despite the neighborhood’s shifts. For years, a mural of the volcanoes Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl marked its exterior, a fitting symbol for a place serving traditional food from the State of Mexico. Inside, the space is simple and direct – a small dining room with red tile floors and an open kitchen that puts all the cooking on full display. There’s no elaborate decor, just a clean, casual environment. A few tables are also set up on the sidewalk out front, sometimes with heaters for cooler nights. The whole operation is straightforward, designed to get you fed well and quickly. The restaurant is named for its signature dish, the huarache, a Mexico City specialty shaped like the sole of a sandal. Each one starts as an oblong base of masa that gets stuffed with beans, fried until crisp, and then loaded with a choice of meat, onions, cilantro, crema, and crumbled cheese. The meat options are traditional and extensive, running from asada and pastor to more specialized cuts like cabeza and lengua. Vegetarian versions are also a staple. Beyond the huaraches, the menu covers other classic antojitos. You’ll find fried quesadillas – including the hard-to-find huitlacoche variety – alongside sopes, gorditas, and pambazos. On weekends, the kitchen prepares a special Texcoco-style lamb barbacoa, served with a side of rich consommé for dipping. To drink, the house-made aguas frescas, like the cucumber-lime, are the standard order. Portions here are famously massive, making it a reliable stop for late-night comfort food. It’s worth noting the place has a history of being cash-only.