Killer Noodle

While the Tsujita name usually implies dipping noodles, this Sawtelle offshoot is strictly a Tantanmen operation where the menu functions more like a matrix. The kitchen separates the seasoning into two distinct scales: spiciness and numbness. You pick a level for each – from zero to six – determining exactly how much chili heat and prickly ash sensation goes into the bowl. It is a specific, customizable approach to the Japanese adaptation of Sichuan Dan Dan noodles, allowing diners to dial in the exact ratio of sweat to tingling. The space mirrors the intensity of the food. The interior is washed in red, from the walls and upholstery to the light fixtures hanging low over the tables. It is a loud, high-energy room, with an open kitchen that keeps the noise level up. Solo diners usually fill the counter seats, while groups pack into the tables or spill out onto the front patio, which is equipped with heat lamps for cooler nights. The bowls themselves come in soup and soupless varieties. The "Tokyo Style" is the standard order for broth drinkers, a rich, nutty suspension of sesame and peanut butter topped with ground pork and cashews. The soupless "Original" relies on garlic, oil, and fresh cayenne, served with a lemon wedge to cut the fat. Service is fast, and tables turn over quickly, though the popularity of the concept often means waiting on the sidewalk before getting a seat.