While most katsu counters deliver a finished product, this Kyoto import serves its beef rare and leaves the final step to you. Squeezed into a compact storefront on Sawtelle Boulevard – the former home of Sushi Tsujita – the dining room operates with high energy and very little elbow room. The open kitchen dominates the space, amplifying the sounds of frying and the staff’s enthusiastic calls as orders hit the pass.
The menu splits between traditional pork tonkatsu and the restaurant’s signature gyukatsu – breaded beef cutlets. The beef arrives with a deep crimson center, intended to be seared slice-by-slice on a personal hot stone provided at the table. The setup allows you to control the temperature of each bite of A5 Wagyu or American beef, creating a rhythm of searing and eating that naturally slows down the meal. The crust itself is distinct, derived from panko made in-house using an electric current method that yields a lighter, airier texture than standard breadcrumbs.
Meals follow the standard gozen format, arriving on trays loaded with miso soup, shredded cabbage, and rice – all of which are refillable. A lineup of six different seasonings and sauces, including a sharp wasabi soy, sits ready for experimentation. Given the size of the room and the interactive nature of the cooking, tables don't turn over quickly. Lines form early, and waits often stretch past an hour, with larger groups frequently having to split up to fit into the available seats.