Masa of Echo Park Bakery & Cafe

A revolving oven that’s been in this 1920s Echo Park building since the 1930s is the engine behind Masa. The restaurant operates out of a historic spot on Sunset Boulevard, once home to a series of bakeries and even an auto shop, and the name – Spanish for "dough" – is a nod to both the building’s past and the neighborhood’s Hispanic heritage. Inside, the space is eclectic and cozy, with mismatched wooden chairs, large tile floors, and a small bar area near the open kitchen. The whole place has the feel of a family-owned operation, because it is one. Everything here revolves around authentic Chicago-style deep-dish pizza. That pizza requires a 40 to 45-minute bake time, a non-negotiable part of the process that sets the pace for the entire meal. Vegan versions of the deep-dish are always available, made with Teese mozzarella. While the pizza is the main event, the menu also includes other Italian-American dishes, from cheese and jalapeño croquettes and house-baked Cuban bread rolls to full pasta plates like gnocchi. The croissant bread pudding is a house specialty. Because of the long bake time, the rhythm of a meal here is different. The dining room can get busy, especially for dinner, and it’s a popular spot for celebrating birthdays. It’s common for large groups to pre-order their pizzas, and calling ahead for a reservation is a good idea for any party of five or more. Just know that the last order for any deep-dish pizza is taken about 30 minutes before the kitchen closes.