Matu Kai

A massive wood-fire grill is the engine of Matu Kai, visible through large glass windows as soon as you enter the former bank building in Brentwood. Outside, a plant-enclosed patio offers another dining space, but the main room is the draw. The interior is sleek and dimly lit, with dark, curved walnut walls that create semi-private, camel-colored booths. A long, green stone bar curves through the space, lit by globe-shaped lanterns that hang from brass fixtures. The entire operation is built around a single idea: 100% grass-fed Wagyu from a specific, family-owned farm in New Zealand. The name itself, Matū, is a Māori word for “essence,” and that’s the focus here. There are no heavy sauces or marinades – cuts like the New York Strip and Ribeye are cooked over the open fire to a precise 'warm red' temperature, then served sliced to showcase the beef itself. Beyond the main steaks, the menu includes a 24-hour bone broth, Japanese-style steak tartare, and an 8-hour braised beef cheek with celeriac purée. Dishes unique to this location include Ribeye Brochettes with harissa spice and a Maltagliati pasta with a rich ribeye ragù. Wood-fired lobster tails provide a non-beef option, and the tallow-fried french fries are a standard side. The wine list is extensive, with a proprietary Matū Reserve Cabernet from Napa. Reservations are usually necessary and can be booked up to a month in advance, though the oversized bar is an option for walk-ins. That bar is also the only place you can get the Wagyu Philly cheesesteak – it’s a well-known item but isn’t available in the main dining room.