The line snaking through the concrete courtyard of Far East Plaza usually tells you exactly where to go. Since moving from a food truck to this permanent Chinatown storefront in 2016, Howlin’ Ray’s has operated as a high-volume counter service spot where waiting is simply part of the transaction. The space itself is compact – a glass-fronted kitchen and a register, with very little room to sit. The atmosphere is loud and deliberate, driven by a kitchen crew that shouts orders and keeps the energy high to match the pace of the queue.
Founders Johnny Ray Zone and his wife Amanda brought the concept back from Nashville, applying Zone’s background in fine dining to what is traditionally a casual regional staple. The kitchen uses Mary’s Farm chicken and peanut oil, frying the bird before coating it in a spice paste that ranges from mild to punishing. The heat levels are a specific progression here, starting at "Country" – which has no heat – and climbing six steps to "Howlin’," a blend utilizing Ghost Peppers and Carolina Reapers.
The menu is brief. Most orders focus on The Sando, a fried breast served on a butter bun with slaw, pickles, and comeback sauce, though wings and quarter-bird plates are available for those who want the chicken on its own. Because seating is so limited, you often see customers eating on nearby ledges in the plaza. It is messy food, and the most practical advice for first-timers is to wash your hands thoroughly before touching your eyes.