From its unassuming entrance in the colonial-era streetscape of Kala Ghoda, Khyber unfolds into a sprawling, multi-level warren of rooms designed to feel like a rustic haveli. The space is a maze of distinct dining areas connected by hand-carved Rajasthani stone arches and jalis, the result of a complete redesign after a fire in 1985. Earthy, soot-streaked walls are lit by lantern-style fixtures, casting a warm glow on antique woodwork and mirrored alcoves. It’s a transportive setting, and the effect is intentional – some of the murals here were painted directly onto the walls by celebrated Indian artists like M.F. Husain and Anjolie Ela Menon.
The menu follows a similar philosophy of deep-rooted tradition. For over three decades, the core dishes have remained exactly the same, with recipes passed down through the Bahl family, who founded the original 10-seater spot back in 1958. The cuisine is North-West Frontier, focused on rich Mughlai flavors and preparations from the tandoor. The Khyber Raan – a whole leg of lamb marinated and slow-cooked – is the centerpiece for many tables. Other staples include the Tandoori Jhinga, a deeply flavorful Maa ki Dal, and the classic Butter Chicken, all prepared by in-house chefs to ensure absolute consistency. The menu works just as well for vegetarians, with dedicated platters and dishes like Paneer Korma holding their own. Now managed by the third generation, the restaurant’s layout, with its various rooms and private nooks, makes it a natural fit for group dinners and celebratory meals.