Golden Steer at One Fifth

After nearly seventy years in Las Vegas, the Golden Steer has finally expanded, transplanting its tuxedoed waiters and wet-aged beef into the ground floor of Greenwich Village’s historic One Fifth Avenue. The arrival marks a significant shift for a space that previously housed Otto and the original One Fifth, replacing Italian casual with a deliberate collision of frontier chic and New York Art Deco. You enter through a narrow corridor dubbed "The Strip" before the room opens up into a dining hall defined by deep red leather booths, velvet chairs, and golden light fixtures. The decor does not shy away from its roots; walls are lined with western-themed artwork, including paintings of galloping steeds and silver spurs from the 1800s, creating a distinct visual break from the typical Manhattan steakhouse aesthetic. Two private areas, the Mob Room and the Showgirl Room, lean even further into the lore, displaying archival photos and gold-trimmed costumes. Service here is performative and rooted in mid-century ritual. Waiters in formal wear navigate the floor with carts, preparing Caesar salads tableside – a process that requires a minimum of two diners – and flambéing Bananas Foster or Cherries Jubilee within view of the room. The menu adheres to the 1958 formula, centering on wet-aged USDA Prime cuts like the 16-ounce "Shorthorn" New York strip and varying sizes of prime rib, accompanied by twice-baked potatoes and creamed corn. A prominent bar area pays homage to the building’s 1930s tenant, the #1 Bar, and serves as the primary option for walk-ins. Note that the restaurant enforces a strict dress code to maintain the formal atmosphere.