noreetuh

It is rare to find Per Se alumni serving slices of SPAM on blocks of rice, but that specific balance of high-end technique and island comfort food is exactly how noreetuh operates. Chef Chung Chow, a Honolulu native, opened this East Village spot to serve the food he grew up eating, refined rather than reinvented. The dining room is a tight squeeze even by neighborhood standards – a long, narrow slip of a space with exposed brick and a distinct wave-patterned wall. Tables are packed close enough that you will likely overhear your neighbors debating which musubi to order, and the noise level rises steadily as the room fills. The menu is built for sharing, starting with that extensive musubi section. While the classic luncheon meat version is available, the kitchen also sends out variations topped with galbi, scallop, or spicy tuna tartare. Larger plates cover substantial comfort food territory, particularly the mochiko chicken loco moco – fried chicken over rice with a fried egg and gravy – and mentaiko spaghetti. What distinguishes this from a standard plate-lunch spot is the beverage program. Managed by co-owner Jin Ahn, the wine list is surprisingly deep, with a heavy focus on French and German varietals chosen specifically to cut through the richness of the food. It is a busy room where reservations are essential, especially if you are planning to tackle one of the large-format pre-orders like the calamansi-glazed duck.