The name comes from the old telephone exchange code for this stretch of the Upper East Side – a lingering detail that explains just how deeply this market is dug into the neighborhood. While it began as a humble produce stand in the early 20th century, today it operates as the primary kitchen for locals who want home-cooked food without turning on a stove. The space is tight and consistently busy, with narrow aisles stocked with high-end pantry staples, fresh breads, and specialty produce.
Most of the foot traffic, however, flows directly toward the long glass cases of prepared foods. This is where the daily movement of the store concentrates, as regulars point out specific portions of poached salmon, seasonal soups, and roasted vegetables to take home for dinner. The operation has been in the same family since the 1970s, and the staff often know the clientele by name, even if the checkout line slows down occasionally while loyalty points are tallied.
There is also a specific ritual surrounding the frozen yogurt counter that draws people who aren't even shopping for groceries. Unlike standard soft-serve spots, the staff here blends the toppings directly into the swirl – creating a dense, consistent texture – rather than leaving them sitting on top. It is common to see the wooden benches out front full of people eating massive cups of the stuff, often stopping by before or after a walk to the nearby museum mile.