Popoca Oakland

The name Popoca comes from the Nawat word for emitting smoke, and once you step inside, the connection is immediate. A wood-burning hearth anchors the open kitchen, sending a haze through the dining room that clings to your clothes long after dinner ends. Chef Anthony Salguero uses that live fire to rework Salvadoran cuisine, applying the precision of his fine dining background to dishes that are traditionally strictly casual. The pupusas are the most obvious beneficiary of this setup – thick, handmade masa rounds that pick up a distinct char and smokiness you won’t find at a standard pupusería. But the menu digs deeper into regional traditions. You’ll find dishes like clams dressed in alguashte, a green sauce made from ground pumpkin seeds, or the Pollo Campero, a fried chicken plate that lands on almost every table. The space in Old Oakland feels lived-in and lively, with a noise level that matches the heat of the kitchen. It’s designed for sharing, and most groups order family-style to cover more ground. If you want to hand over control, the kitchen offers a prix-fixe “estilo Popoca” option that runs through the night’s best plates. Drinks follow the same geography, mixing agave spirits with Salvadoran ingredients, while the seasonal tres leches cake handles the finish.