What began as a storage depot for wine distributors Julien Mercier and Aurélien Salomé has shifted into a lively cellar where the inventory doubles as the décor. Located near the Marx Dormoy station, Les Vins Du Matin operates with a straightforward hybrid model: the walls are lined with natural wines from producers the owners have represented for years, and you can either buy a bottle to go or pay a set corkage fee to drink it on-site.
The selection leans heavily on these professional relationships, featuring makers like Vincent Wallard and Vanessa Letort. Because the space was originally intended for storage rather than service, the room is compact. Evenings – especially on weekends – see the volume rise considerably as the tables fill up and the gap between parties disappears. It is a loud, high-energy environment where you are likely to be sitting elbow-to-elbow with the rest of the neighborhood.
Food keeps pace with the wine, arriving as small, shareable plates rather than structured courses. The kitchen sends out reliable staples like panisse fritters, deviled eggs, and grilled cheese sandwiches. The cheesecake has established its own following, frequently landing on tables alongside the final glasses of the night. Occasionally, guest chefs step in to rewrite the menu for a few days, but the rhythm of the room remains consistent: crowded, casual, and centered entirely on the bottle you just pulled off the shelf.