Gramme

Moving from the Haut Marais to the 11th arrondissement gave chef Marine Gora a kitchen roughly the size of her entire first shop, and that shift in scale is immediately obvious on the plate. While the original Gramme built its reputation on tight quarters and daytime snacks, this location on Place des métallos stretches the concept into a full-service cantine that operates from early morning until late at night. The room is spacious but retains a dense, bistro energy, anchored by a counter stacked with house-made pastries and shelves stocking a small selection of grocery items. During the day, the kitchen pushes out a set lunch menu, but the cooking leans heavily on Gora’s Vietnamese heritage rather than standard café fare. You are just as likely to find a savory rice soup or a fermented potato flatbread as you are a seasonal salad. The *chou farci à la viet* – cabbage stuffed with pork and shrimp – has become a fixture of the menu, appearing alongside rotating vegetable-forward dishes that change weekly. As the day wears on, the rhythm shifts from morning coffee service to a buzzing dinner crowd. The evening menu switches entirely to small, shareable plates – usually two or three per person is the right amount – designed to accompany a natural wine list that pulls heavily from France, Italy, and Georgia. It is a popular dining spot for the neighborhood, so booking a table is usually necessary to secure a seat inside or on the terrace.