A La Renaissance

While the interior served as a backdrop for a scene in *Inglourious Basterds*, this century-old bistro operates firmly in the reality of the 11th arrondissement. A La Renaissance has stood on Rue de la Roquette for over 100 years, and the dining room retains the wine-red banquettes, marble-topped bar, and brass rails of its 1930s prime. When the team behind Le Mary Celeste and Candelaria took over, they brought in architect Johanna Etournel to stabilize the structure without polishing away the patina. The result is a space that feels lived-in rather than curated, lit by original Art Deco fixtures and reflected in large, spotted mirrors. The kitchen sticks to a script of traditional French fare, with the menu listed exclusively in French – a clear signal of who fills the seats here. You see plates of steak tartare, coarse-grained andouillettes, and *ris de veau* (sweetbreads) moving across the floor, though Chef Min Wou Choi has introduced focused additions like seared scallops and turbot in bisque. The bar program is more ambitious than the typical neighborhood café, offering a deep roster of natural wines and sharp cocktails, including a house martini that sees frequent rotation on the tables. The room gets loud during dinner service, packed with a local crowd that appreciates the generous portions and lack of pretense. It is also one of the reliable options open on Sundays, catching the neighborhood spillover when other kitchens across the city are dark.