Hundreds of wine bottles line the walls at Les Arlots, a small bistro that feels like a classic piece of the 10th arrondissement, just a short walk from Gare du Nord. The space is intimate and built around a large zinc bar, with simple wooden tables packed tightly together over a multicolored mosaic tile floor. It’s the kind of traditional, “pur jus” Parisian spot where the focus is squarely on the food and wine, not on any extra fuss. The atmosphere is relaxed and unfussy, with taxidermy on the walls and the day’s menu written out on a single blackboard.
That blackboard changes constantly, reflecting a commitment to high-quality, seasonal ingredients. The cooking is straightforward French comfort food, executed with real precision. You’ll find starters like a perfect homemade terrine or rich œuf-mayo, sometimes updated with black garlic or trout roe. While everything is excellent, the dish that built the restaurant’s reputation is the saucisse-purée – a generous, herby homemade sausage served over a mound of incredibly smooth and buttery mashed potatoes. It’s a simple plate of food, but it’s what brings people back again and again.
The wine program, overseen by co-owner Tristan Renoux, is just as serious as the kitchen, with over 250 bottles to choose from. Because the room is so small, booking a table by phone is essential, especially for dinner. You might get lucky as a walk-in if you show up early, and solo diners can often find a seat at the bar. The one crucial thing to know is that the famous sausage and mash is a dinner-only affair; it’s not available during lunch service.