
Modernist hilltop home filled with rare books and a private collection of Brazilian art. Original living rooms open onto Burle Marx gardens and wide views of Guanabara Bay.
If the sun’s out, I’m at the beach.
In 1954, industrialist Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya demolished an existing house to build this modernist residence, designed by Wladimir Alves de Souza to function as both a home and a private gallery. The resulting structure sits high in Santa Teresa, surrounded by gardens landscaped by Roberto Burle Marx. The grounds are an integral part of the experience, with winding paths and vegetation that frame clear views of Guanabara Bay and the city sprawl below. Inside, the layout retains the intimacy of a private estate rather than the sterility of a traditional museum. You move through three floors where the collection is displayed alongside the original furnishings. The library and dining room have been preserved exactly as they were when Castro Maya lived here, maintaining a domestic scale that makes the art feel personal. The collection itself is massive—around 22,000 items—and eclectic. It holds the largest collection of Jean-Baptiste Debret’s works in Brazil, alongside significant pieces by Candido Portinari and European works from artists like Joan Miró and Gustave Courbet. The atmosphere is generally quiet, with visitors wandering between the rare books, maps, and paintings. There are no commercial amenities on the grounds—no café or restaurant—so planning a meal elsewhere in the neighborhood is necessary. Parking is extremely limited, making arrival by taxi or public transport the standard approach. Admission fees are waived for all visitors on Wednesdays.