Joel and Duncan Gott originally took over a mid-century drive-in in Napa Valley, but their San Francisco location trades the grassy lawn for the heavy foot traffic of the Ferry Building. It operates with the speed and mechanics of a fast-food joint, though the sourcing suggests a sit-down restaurant. You line up at the counter to order, often navigating crowds of commuters and tourists, before taking a number and scouting for a seat.
The menu sticks to the roadside theme – burgers, fries, shakes – but upgrades the components. The burgers use high-quality Angus beef, the ahi tuna sandwich is a long-standing staple, and seasonal boards rotate through items like heirloom tomato BLTs or kimchi-topped pork. Unusually for a counter-service spot, the beverage list is serious about local production, meaning you see plenty of California wines and craft beers balancing on the silver serving trays alongside the paper-wrapped food.
While there is some utilitarian indoor seating, the experience is largely defined by the rows of outdoor picnic tables along the Embarcadero. It is a loud, communal environment where you eat next to strangers with the Bay Bridge in view. The kitchen churns through orders quickly, but securing a spot outside usually requires some patience – or a willingness to share a table – during the lunch rush.