Lunette

Inside the San Francisco Ferry Building, the blue-and-white striped awnings of a classic Cambodian diner mark the location of Lunette. The small, 30-seat space is designed around an L-shaped counter that offers a direct view into the open kitchen, filling the air with the scents of simmering broth and wok-fried dishes. Seating is tight and simple – just a collection of mustard yellow chairs and fire-engine red metal stools that contribute to its 1940s diner feel. The concept comes from chef Nite Yun, who previously ran the nationally acclaimed Nyum Bai in Oakland, and the menu is a focused return to her Cambodian street food roots. The signature dish is the Kuy Teav Phnom Penh, a complex rice noodle soup built on a pork broth that’s simmered for eight hours. It comes loaded with sliced pork, minced pork, and shrimp, and you can order it as a traditional soup or “dry” with the rich broth served on the side. Beyond the noodles, you’ll find Khmer Fried Chicken wings, brined overnight in fish sauce and chile flakes before being fried with Kampot pepper. Other staples include the wok-tossed Loc Lak beef and Lort Cha, a dish of stir-fried rice pin noodles. There are also dishes with regional influences, like the Mee Kola dry egg noodles, and a vegan yellow curry that comes with both rice and a baguette from Acme Bread for dipping. The service model is straightforward counter service. You order, pay, and then navigate the limited seating. During peak hours, finding an open spot can be a challenge, as the restaurant exists within the constant hum and flow of the Ferry Building marketplace.