Hakkoku

The entire experience at Hakkoku is built around a single idea: a nigiri-only omakase. There are no appetizers or small plates to start – the focus is strictly on the progression of sushi, served in an intimate and minimalist space in Ginza. You’ll take a single elevator up to the third floor of the La Paix building, and from there the quiet, zen-like waiting area sets the tone for the meal. The restaurant is partitioned into three small rooms, each with a low, flat hinoki wooden counter that seats a maximum of six people. This one-to-six chef-to-guest ratio is fundamental to the service, creating a direct connection as each piece is prepared and presented. Soft light filters through walls made of shoji and washi paper, keeping the focus entirely on the counter. The meal is a lengthy progression of around 25 to 32 pieces of sushi. Chef Hiroyuki Sato’s signature shari, or sushi rice, is what ties everything together. It’s seasoned with two types of red vinegar, giving the rice a distinct dark color and a saltier profile designed to stand up to fatty fish and sake. The course often begins with a tossaki temaki, a hand roll using a flavorful cut of tuna from the base of the head, before moving through seasonal highlights like different cuts of bluefin tuna, kohada (gizzard shad), and even monkfish liver served as nigiri. The whole service lasts about an hour and a half, and the staff, including Chef Sato, speak English fluently. Sake can be ordered by the carafe for pairing throughout the meal. Given the sheer number of pieces, it’s best to arrive with a large appetite.