
Sento baths are my go-to after a long day. I can’t resist the yakitori stalls near the station.
On a quiet residential street in Meguro, the only sign for Masakichi is the traditional noren curtain hanging in the doorway. Step inside and you’ll find a tiny, retro space almost entirely consumed by a single counter where diners sit in a row. A narrow gangway runs behind the seats, and the whole room is filled with the distinct, smoky aroma of binchotan charcoal. The tight quarters create a buzzing, casual atmosphere where the grill is the clear center of the operation. Chef Masahiko Kodama works this grill with intense focus, orchestrating what he calls a ‘dance’ between the dripping chicken fat and the heat below. He uses a specific breed of chicken – Koshi no Tori from Niigata prefecture – and seasons the skewers simply with salt from the same region. This unwavering dedication to perfecting a single ingredient is what earned the restaurant its Michelin recognition and a feature on the show Ugly Delicious. Most meals start with the omakase set, a chef's choice selection that provides a full tour of the day's best skewers. From there, you can add individual orders of specific cuts like the neck (seseri), butt (bonjiri), or the chicken meatball (tsukune). While it's a yakitori restaurant, the meal isn't considered complete without the Chinese-style ramen. It’s a well-known finisher that serves as a grand finale, though the simple egg rice is another popular option. The sake list is carefully selected to pair with the food, and an English menu is available. Just know that reservations are absolutely essential and can be difficult to secure.