Laoban Dumplings

“Laoban” translates to “boss,” a nod to the proprietors of the neighborhood dumpling shops founder Patrick Coyne frequented in China. It’s a specific kind of hospitality he aimed to replicate here, partnering with Chef Tim Ma to bring that routine to a stall inside Union Market. The space itself is a compact cove carved out of the larger food hall. While the surrounding market is often a roar of crowds and overlapping queues, Laoban maintains a dedicated set of tables and chairs for its patrons. It’s tight quarters – you’re likely elbow-to-elbow with neighbors – but having a designated place to sit creates a slight buffer from the main thoroughfare. The menu is focused, centering on bamboo steamers filled with dumplings and bao. Recipes developed by Ma lean into specific fillings like ginger chicken, classic pork and chive, or vegetarian options with bok choy and shiitake. You order at the counter, take a number, and wait for the baskets to arrive. It’s common to see people stopping in for a quick lunch of pork soup dumplings or grabbing a sesame chicken bao as a walking snack. The operation has grown beyond just the hot food counter, and a significant portion of the business now revolves around the freezer case. Regulars often finish a meal at the counter and immediately buy a bag of the same product to take home.